While the north-western city of Amritsar is best known for the serene shimmering splendour of the Golden Temple, the narrow streets that surround it are a bustling, frenetic snapshot of local life. Its location close to the border with Pakistan has also made it strategically important and given rise to the flamboyant spectacle of the Wagah Border Ceremony.


The chaotic streets of Amritsar melt away as you step into the peaceful embrace of the Golden Temple, its worshippers ensconced in private prayer. Equally tranquil is the Jallianwala Bagh, in contrast with the goose-stepping and dramatic flourishes of the Indian and Pakistani guards as they perform the Border Ceremony every evening.


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