To understand a city the best place to begin is in its local markets. Salvador is virtually surrounded by the sea and its fishermen are protected by Yemanja, the goddess of the sea. Fittingly, this experience focussing on Bahian cuisine begins in Agua dos Meninos fish market, the city's main distribution centre for all that comes from Yemanja's domain. From here it is a short hop to the Sao Joaquim market, a traditionally vital trading link to the abundance of produce from the farming hinterland of the Reconcavo, and still the largest open air market in Brazil. It is a labyrinth of almost 800 stalls selling a myriad of goods: fruit, vegetables and spices, earthenware cooking utensils, wicker basketwork, and medicinal and sacred herbs. Afterwards enjoy a delicious lunch, and learn how to make your very own traditional dish.

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