All time high
Writer and thrill-seeker Alex Frank discovers glacial landscapes and ultra-remote retreats cruising through Norway’s fjords in an all-electric Porsche.
I remember the twists and turns like they were yesterday. There I was, in a situation I never could have imagined: driving an all-electric Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo around the jagged edges of Europe’s tallest vertical rock face, on roads so narrow you could almost put one foot on each side like the Colossus of Rhodes, winding along the so-called “Troll Road” that marks this Norwegian mountain like a squiggly line. This wasn’t unplanned: I was trekking by car on an expertly mapped-out excursion through Norway’s famously beautiful fjords. But I had no idea what that actually meant until I was right there in it, two hands on the wheel, trying to keep my cool in a quick little car that would make James Bond purr.
These are the kind of epic moments you can expect on the impossibly exciting quests curated by 62°Nord. Owner and operator of two hotels in the region – the Union Øye, open since 1891, and the delightfully tranquil Storfjord – 62°Nord has developed a programme where you bounce between the two properties in a tricked-out electric Porsche, with pre-set maps to help guide you to the best and most beautiful views of the sublime fjords. From the Norse word fjörðr, these incredible, water-filled valleys were formed at the end of the last Ice Age, eroded by glaciers that slowly melted over epochs. Dotting Norway’s western and northern coasts, they feel like ancient natural relics that evoke the country’s powerful Viking past, who criss-crossed these reservoirs a thousand years ago.
Above: Winding along the mountainous “Troll Road”
The 62°Nord experience offers up incredible opportunities to take in these see-it-to-believe-it wonders up close. Each morning, you step into a fully-charged Porsche – an all-electric stunner that can hit 230 km/h, requiring not a drop of gasoline – with a mapped out route for that day’s suggested stops. We found wonders great and small, from the Geirangerfjord – the most famous fjord in Norway and a UNESCO World Heritage Site – to a quiet little riverside tucked into a lush mossy forest that felt straight out of a folktale.
While directions are offered, you are encouraged to stake your own way through, hitting up whatever destinations most interest you. There are waterfalls and mountainous skyscapes all around, and the peppy little Porsche allows you to glide so gracefully and skillfully through them that you start to feel part of the landscape itself, like some kind of lucky rambler with nothing but new things to see.
There were opportunities for the foodies among us, too. In addition to the delicious breakfasts at the hotels – the homemade bread is heartwarming – there is a chance to visit one of the area’s most vaunted restaurants, Kami Skotholmen, which sits on a tiny island only accessible by a small boat. Worth every nautical mile for its insanely fresh seafood, the menu is inspired by the day’s catch; they are best known for their creamy tomato-based crab soup, which has just the right kick of spice.
Above: The fire pit at Storfjord (Photo: The Ingalls, 62°Nord)
Some of the boats we took, though, weren’t so tiny. One of my favorite aspects of the trip was the unique way in which local Norwegians themselves traverse this vast topography. Fjords can be huge, and for regular day-to-day commuters, there is a system of ferries that allows you to get around the region from the comfort of a slow-moving, steady boat. One day, we drove our car right onto one of those ferries, which carried us through the Sunnmørsalpane mountains by way of the Hjørundfjorden’s clear, calm waters. These moments weren’t just a chance to stretch our legs and grab coffee from the little onboard café; they allowed us a chance to slow down from the frenzied pace of the road, and gaze at and reflect on the splendors around us. Acceleration is great, but so is the unhurried hum of a steady ship.
There’s something about the totality of the 62°Nord experience that feels unique, almost private in its pleasures. A trip to the Louvre is always nice. Tokyo and Singapore are culinary meccas. But there’s nothing like choosing your own adventure from behind the wheel of your own souped-up car, a mini master of your own destiny, even if for just one vacation. This is the way to see the fjords, dreaming it up as you go, day by day, mile by mile.
Above: The Living Room at Storfjord (Photo: The Ingalls, 62°Nord)
SDP tip: ‘Nothing epitomises the Norwegian concept of “friluftsliv” (living a life connected to nature) quite like 29/2 Aurland – an eight-suite family home in the heart of the fjords that I was lucky enough to visit. Arrive by train on the iconic Flam railway as the cog wheels chug through mountains and valleys. Once at the property, the adventures are unlimited and crowds non-existent. Enjoy waterfall hikes, river fishing, zip lining and rowing across vast fjords to truly reconnect with nature.’ – Gina Waygood, Scott Dunn Private
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