A Rail Journey Through Peru: Two Nights on the Belmond Andean Explorer

As we waited at a tiny, slightly eerie station deep in Peru’s altiplano, anticipation built for our rail adventure. Although the Andean Explorer train officially departs from Arequipa, we joined at KM93 after a stay in the Colca Canyon. Soon, a majestic blue train chugged around the bend and rolled to a halt, with friendly faces leaning from the doors to greet us. 

From the moment we set foot on the train, the faultless Belmond service stood out. Most staff on board seemed to know our names and food preferences within about 5 minutes! Our cabins were beautifully designed and compact yet thoughtfully equipped with everything we could possibly need. Before long, we were on the move. As lunch was served, we began to pass through some of the most stunning landscapes across the altiplano - vast, ochre plains and immense rock formations stretching endlessly beneath a piercing blue sky. I found myself constantly leaping up from my seat to take yet more photos! 

After lunch, our first stop was the Sumbay Caves, where we discovered the ancient rock paintings, some dating back over 8,000 years, depicting hunting scenes and early human life in the Andes. At over 4,000m, we were already starting to feel the altitude, and even the climb back up from the caves felt like a challenge. The Belmond team quickly stepped in, offering a blast of oxygen to anyone who needed it. Once night fell, the train made another stop to allow for some star-gazing – a truly special experience, surrounded by the captivating silence of the crisp night sky. 

We pushed on to Lake Titicaca overnight and as a very light sleeper I didn’t have the best night given the train’s rather jerky movement, but it was up for sunrise over the lake at 5am and luckily it was worth the effort! The onboard team pulled out all the stops, bringing blankets and hot beverages for the troopers that made it. After a delicious breakfast, we headed out for a day exploring the lake, including visiting the famous Uros floating reed islands and Taquile Island. Once we reached Taquile, the Belmond team had put together a makeshift beach club with loungers, parasols and games where we spent an enjoyable couple of hours on the shores of the lake. Having visited Lake Titicaca before on my first trip to Peru a few years ago, this day definitely had the elevated ‘Belmond sparkle’ to it.

Back on board, we enjoyed a delicious dinner before setting off again. Passing through Juliaca city was fascinating, as the locals selling their goods moved to let us pass and then bustled back onto the tracks as soon as we were out of the way. Observing and listening to the organized chaos from the back of the train was an experience I won’t forget. The final night on board of course culminated in a few pisco sours, fabulous food and some great live music.

Waking up the next morning, I was struck by how much the scenery had changed. The dramatic altiplano gave way to green farmlands, pastures, and small local towns as we approached the Sacred Valley. I adored sitting in my cabin simply watching people going about their daily lives as we trundled past these places never otherwise visited by tourists. After a brief stop at Raqchi, an impressive 15th-century Inca archaeological site, we continued our journey towards Cusco. Making the most of our final couple of hours on board, we enjoyed the live saxophonist while a delicious brunch was served in the observation carriage. 

What stayed with me most was the sense of access to remote corners of Peru far beyond the typical tourist trail. The ever-changing landscapes combined with the warmth of the staff made this far more than a train journey; it felt like a moving window into a different world. 

Andean Explorer Observation Deck