Small bubbles, big ideas

Coco Chanel famously said, “I only drink Champagne on two occasions: when I’m in love and when I’m not.” Champagne symbolises celebration and grandeur, toasted at weddings, triumphs and glamorous soirées. Traditionally, though, it was a wine to be enjoyed as an everyday pleasure, not just reserved for special occasions.

Sparkling wines abound, but Champagne is defined by the land, le terroir, which nourishes the vines and provides the minerals for the grapes. It is when walking amongst the 34,000 hectares of beautiful vineyards – precision-planted rows of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes – that you realise Champagne begins not in the cellar, but in the soil. Covering ancient chalk hills, the vines burrow into prehistoric seabeds that give Champagne its hallmark crisp, mineral edge.

Today, Champagne houses and small growers share their story through vineyard tours, bringing to life how they are evolving to meet the modern challenges of warmer seasons, changing weather patterns and organic conversion, reshaping the area to keep the bubbles at their best.

Pivotal to this is sustainability. The region’s governing body, Comité Champagne, has set strong environmental goals, including working towards net zero by 2050, drastically cutting waste and water usage, and protecting wildlife in and around the vineyards. Wineries are increasingly turning to solar power, electric tractors and lighter glass bottles, covering crops to improve soil health and experimenting with hardier grape varieties to reduce chemical use and meet the challenge of climate change.

Classic tours can be taken in the historic towns of Reims and Épernay, where the grand maisons (including Lanson, Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot and Pommery) lead visitors through deep labyrinths of Roman-dug chalk cellars. But the best way of getting beneath the skin of the region is through SDP’s exclusive access to off-the-tourist-path experiences, offering a rare and atmospheric way to discover the heart of Champagne. At Maison Ruinart, the area’s oldest champagne house founded in 1729, a private guided visit uncovers the elegance of its Chardonnay-based blends, descending nearly 40-metres into the UNESCO-listed chalk cellars known as the Crayères, where bottles are stored in an eight-kilometre labyrinth of tunnels. Following the tour, enjoy an elegant five-course dinner in the Maison’s dining room, each dish paired with a different delicious cuvée.

For a more boutique experience, independent Champagne houses such as Maison Piere Paillard, Champagne Le Gallais and Champagne Louis Brochet offer superb Champagnes, as well as a rich heritage and an interesting, exclusive experience. Or opt for a touch of adventure with Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, and take to the skies in a hot air balloon, floating over the vineyards before landing at a beautiful viewpoint, where your private butler will have a bespoke picnic waiting – with chilled Champagne, of course.

When deciding on which bottles to enjoy for a celebration at home, consider cuvées that rarely leave French soil: single-vineyard bottlings, “grower” Champagnes with limited allocations, or vintage releases not widely exported. Non-vintage blends are reliable, but the terroir-driven, small-production bottles make the most memorable impression.

Champagne endures because it evolves. Today, Champagne is staying relevant through innovation, sustainability and a deep connection to its landscape and heritage – a wine culture that’s moving with the times.

5 of the finest maisons to visit in the Champagne region, chosen for their history, cellar experience and wine quality

1. Champagne Ruinart
   Part of the LVMH group, Champagne Ruinart was established in Reims in 1729 and is known for its elegant Chardonnay-driven wines and famous Blanc de Blancs. ruinart.com
2. Billecart-Salmon
   Founded in 1818, Billecart-Salmon is a prestigious family-owned house in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, renowned for producing long-aged Champagnes and the celebrated Le Rosé. champagne-billecart.fr
3. Maison Lanson
   Founded in 1760, Maison Lanson, Reims, takes today's visitors from vine to flute, producing exceptional vintages. lanson.com
4. Maison Thiénot
   Maison Thiénot is a contemporary family-owned Champagne house in Reims founded in 1985 by Alain Thiénot and recognised for high-quality, elegant wines. champagne-thienot.com
5. Champagne Jacquart
   Champagne Jacquart is a prominent modern producer in Reims. Founded in 1964 by a cooperative that has expanded to 1,800 growers, this young Champagne house embodies a modern and relaxed approach. champagne-jacquart.com